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Issue date: 11/29/07
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Cuisine at Le Paradou is très expensive

D.I.S.H.

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Le Paradou, located in Washington D.C.'s vibrant Penn Quarter, promises to dazzle guests with a modern elegance that defines every moment spent under the care of Chef Yannick Cam. Cam, a native of Concarneau, France, has helped reinterpret classical French cooking in America since his arrival nearly 30 years ago, and continually receives international praise for his updated twists on traditional French cuisine.

Soft lighting of grand crystal chandeliers enhances the chic ambiance created by the beige and taupe mid-century décor, making guests feel like they're worth a million dollars, entering into the exclusive world of Washington's power players.

Wow-me dishes such as "Soupe de Morilles Brunes, Coquilles Saint Jacques Rôties" (morel mushroom soup with scallops, $16) and "Raviolis de Crabe, Pince de Homard au Beurre Fin de Tomates" (crab ravioli with lobster claw in a tomato butter sauce, $19) are well worth the price - although they are just petite hors d'oeuvres.

Entrees, on the other hand, are remarkably overpriced, especially taking into consideration that the portion sizes are so small that without an appetizer, one principal dish might be inadequate to satiate an empty stomach. Equally disappointing were the mediocre flavors of each individual component of the main course. The "Caille Farcie aux Cêpes et Pistaches Gnocchi aux Chataines, Gratin de Navets" (stuffed quail with pistachios and porcini mushrooms, gnocchi garnished with chestnuts and turnips, $32) more closely resembled a basic meatloaf creation, accompanied by a plain side of pasta, more than the creative poultry preparation that was deliciously described on the menu.

An ambitious yet approachable menu of rich temptations paired with an outstanding wine list that earned Wine Spectator's 2005 Best-of Award of Excellence should be a formula for dining excellence, but pretentious service in addition to inconsistent fare lead to a surprising conclusion: Your palate may have been happier staying closer to home where options are limited but prices are reasonable and the food is reliable.

Baltimore may not be home to the most-impressive selection of European-influenced cuisine, but the French food that we do have an opportunity to enjoy is affordable, down-to-earth and satisfying. Although we are surrounded by some of the country's finest French dining institutions, Charm City is quickly catching up to its more refined neighbors. Maybe it is time to say, au revoir D.C., bonjour Baltimore!
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