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Untangling the history and mystery of scarves

Hop Couture

Issue date: 11/29/07
Allow me to begin with some history. The year was 1595 and William Shakespeare was hard at work writing great literature. Among his belongings were papers, pens, a coin-bag and a quaint piece of fabric, which resembled a starched cloth collar.

Named a ruff, this article of clothing, favored by high society, was worn around the neck as a fashion piece. This odd accessory often surfaces in portraits and pictures from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. What renders this item so out of place to the modern eye is the fact that it is ruffled.

Years later, the ruff would evolve and transform. It would lose its elemental ruffle and become more fluid; new fabrics and patterns would be knitted and sewn into it by couturiers. Today, we know the ruff as the scarf, the important garment that protects us from the gales and keeps us so chic. The scarf has come a long way since its days as the ruff, but its purpose is still the same.

Scarves of today vary in shape, length, color and fabric, so much so that you would be hard-pressed to find another person who wears the same one as you. The way we choose to wear our scarves, around the neck or shoulders, can also be unique. Scarves allow us to set ourselves apart.

The scarf fashion scene changes with every season and varies so much that it becomes difficult even for a veteran trend spotter to differentiate between the old and new. My advice: Choose a scarf or a handful of scarves that match smartly with your outerwear and coats. Play it right and you'll be strolling across the quad in style.

This season, look for extra-long scarves made from thick, bulky materials that drape off the shoulders "like you just don't care." As for colors, be more conservative: Fall calls for dark shades of brown, mixed with blacks and other solid colors. Buying a scarf full of vibrant colors will force you to narrow down matching outfits, and the last thing a fashionista wants is to limit options.

For the more experienced, I recommend a shawl, a thin, light-material garment in the shape of a rectangle or square. From the Persian sh?l, this piece can be worn a number of ways. Men should wear it like a regular scarf, perhaps tied differently, but women have a greater degree of freedom. Wear your shawl on the shoulders, around the neck or hanging off the arms if the occasion so fits. Most modern shawls are made of silk and are made with fringes at opposite ends of the rectangle.
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