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Issue date: 9/18/08
News & Features

How haute couture survives in a troubling economy

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Now this is all fine and dandy for us college students because we have a failsafe, inexpensive option to depend on.

But the keen ones among you are thinking, "But what about haute couture?" Who stands to gain in the world of immaculately designed hand-made-to-measure world of high fashion? With oil prices so high and the economy so low, can people still afford the costumes of the couture runways?

Enter John Galliano.

Born on the little island of Gibraltar, Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillen moved to London and graduated with a degree in fashion design from St. Martin's School of Arts in 1984. Soon after, he started his eponymous label and was named British Designer of the Year in 1987. Leaving for Paris at the age of 30, Galliano quickly rose in the standings with exhilarating shows and fashions.

In 1995, he was chosen to head Givenchy and became the first Brit to lead a French couture house. Within two years he moved to Christian Dior and began a long journey of talented designing and craftsmanship. He was named British Designer of the Year three more times in the '90s and continues his work at Dior presently.

Galliano's couture designs gained fame for being fashionably outrageous. He put out incredibly detailed and voluminous clothing, pieces that were beautiful to look at but impossible to wear off the runway. And so this trend continued for years and years with other designers following suit.

That is until this past June 30, when Galliano revealed his Fall 2008 Couture lineup. He called his collection "fresh couture - restrained and refined." It was a call back to more classic times, when couture was both tasteful and wearable.

Perhaps conservative times call for conservative clothing. Galliano's show signaled an end to overblown clothing and ushered in an era of conventionality. It's no surprise that former supermodel-turned-first lady of France, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, has chosen to dress in Dior when she meets international delegates and attends state functions.

Designers have chosen to accept the growing economic problems and soaring oil prices and meet them with conservative chic. Other couture houses including Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier have toned down the extravagance as well, perhaps signaling that showing off luxury and wealth in times like these is tactless.

This trend is an interesting one to follow throughout the next decade or until we sort out our problems. Galliano and others have shown us once again that subtlety, quiet confidence, humility and conservative good taste will eventually trump gaudy extravagance.
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