Spring Break
Thom Browne shortens the pants on fashion
Issue date: 12/4/08
There are moments in life when someone comes along and changes the way we look at tradition. These influential people stand out from the crowd, and they perceive the world in a different way. They might even inspire hope, bring change to the political system - their name might even be Obama.
And then there are others who don't inspire hope but bring change in such a way that you laugh rudely, point and snicker. The fashion world's change-bringer is Thom Browne, a 40-something New York-based designer who's setting the fashion scene on fire.
He started in 2001 when he designed a simple suit. But this was no ordinary suit. It was very finely cut, tight on the chest and biceps with the sleeves stopping a solid two inches short of the wrists. And then there were the pants that often inspire passers-by to yell "Hey, Pee-Wee" at Browne. The pants "ride up" to reveal the wearer's ankles in a school-boy manner. A slim tie accompanies the suit, worn with a white Oxford shirt and tucked into the beltless pants.
This suit has changed the way designers look at their own suits and collections. The goofy, ridiculously tight and short suit has made Browne Designer of the Year, named by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and has gotten him a prestigious deal to design special collections at Brooks Brothers, among other things.
But, what about Thom Browne himself? Men just don't change their lifestyle overnight and go around dressing like 13-year-old British boarding school boys for no reason. Browne, like a select few, is more artist than designer. Fed up with the jeans and T-shirt culture that had taken over the world, Browne quite his job at Club Monaco (he was also an unsuccessful actor) and started his own line. He designed his signature suit and wore it around town as a walking advertisement. Soon he caught the eyes of some important people and found himself being catapulted into the limelight, with critics left and right telling him what they interpreted his shrunken suits and shows to mean.
And then there are others who don't inspire hope but bring change in such a way that you laugh rudely, point and snicker. The fashion world's change-bringer is Thom Browne, a 40-something New York-based designer who's setting the fashion scene on fire.
He started in 2001 when he designed a simple suit. But this was no ordinary suit. It was very finely cut, tight on the chest and biceps with the sleeves stopping a solid two inches short of the wrists. And then there were the pants that often inspire passers-by to yell "Hey, Pee-Wee" at Browne. The pants "ride up" to reveal the wearer's ankles in a school-boy manner. A slim tie accompanies the suit, worn with a white Oxford shirt and tucked into the beltless pants.
This suit has changed the way designers look at their own suits and collections. The goofy, ridiculously tight and short suit has made Browne Designer of the Year, named by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and has gotten him a prestigious deal to design special collections at Brooks Brothers, among other things.
But, what about Thom Browne himself? Men just don't change their lifestyle overnight and go around dressing like 13-year-old British boarding school boys for no reason. Browne, like a select few, is more artist than designer. Fed up with the jeans and T-shirt culture that had taken over the world, Browne quite his job at Club Monaco (he was also an unsuccessful actor) and started his own line. He designed his signature suit and wore it around town as a walking advertisement. Soon he caught the eyes of some important people and found himself being catapulted into the limelight, with critics left and right telling him what they interpreted his shrunken suits and shows to mean.
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londontimes
posted 12/08/08 @ 10:01 AM EST
great article. I love thom browne's new approach to the suit. its totally modern and different yet grounded in the tradition of menswear... really cool. (Continued…)
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