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Issue date: 3/5/09
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How to dress like a man: find the perfect suit

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There comes a time in every man's life when for one reason or another, he must wear a suit. Not only must he put it on, but he must wear it like he owns it, not like the suit owns him, for a true man understands that first impressions last a lifetime.

He knows that clothes do not make the man. But he knows that, when making a first impression, his wardrobe may speak louder than his actions - perhaps even louder than his words.

I admit that I've been getting sloppy or even a bit redundant with my streetwear lately, but one thing I take immense pride in is how I wear my formal attire.

Whether it's for a date party, graduation or a job interview, every man needs to make the right decisions when it comes to donning a jacket and tie.

First things first when it comes to choosing the right jacket; screw what the salesman says and trust these simple rules.

The shoulders of the blazer should hug yours and the pads shouldn't bulge out. You should be able to cleanly button the top button without it being too tight, but if there's more than a fist's-worth of space between your stomach and the button, put the jacket back on the rack.

Next, the jacket should extend down to your thighs, but just so that you can cup your fingers underneath the sides. The sleeves should stop short of your wrists, preferably an inch higher to show some cuff.

Now it's time to customize: Three buttons or two? Peak or notch lapel? Double or single vent? These are questions you need to ask yourself before you walk into the store.

A two-button jacket is dominant these days; it shows off more of your chest and tie, and is a younger and more new world look. I generally warn against all three-buttoned suits because the style dates to the '90s, and nobody likes the '90s.

If you are going to buy a three-button jacket, look for one with a rollover lapel so that buttoning the middle button causes the lapel to roll over the top button. You'll see this style more with thicker wool jackets in tweed and plaid, a la Ralph Lauren.
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